Kitchen detective: Going nuts for pecan coffee cake

Nuts are no strangers to coffee cake but they are often nothing more than casual acquaintances, contained only in a dusting of dry streusel. We set out to make a pecan-rich coffee cake, a moist breakfast offering that was packed with pecan flavor.

We started by baking a few pecan coffee cakes for comparison; two were baked in a 9-inch springform pan and one was baked in a Bundt pan. As we tested cakes we found our favorite version was baked in a 10-inch tube pan as it incorporated the best qualities of the other two pans. The center tube helped to cook such a dense cake evenly and more quickly and also allowed us to top the cake with a layer of streusel, which we really liked. If you don’t have a tube pan, the cake can still bake off in a 9-inch springform pan, although it will take about 10 minutes longer.

Our first thought was to use streusel as both a filling and topping. As we were looking for big nut flavor we went with a full cup of toasted nuts to use as our filling/topping. We processed the nuts with 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar, one half cup of packed light brown sugar, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon and one half teaspoon nutmeg. Once the nuts were well broken up, we removed a cup of the mixture to use as our filling. To the remaining nuts/sugar/spices we added a half cup of flour and 4 tablespoons of butter. We pulsed the processor until the mixture looked like crumbly wet sand — about seven 1-second pulses. With our filling and topping squared away we moved onto the cake.

For our 10-inch tube pan we found using 2 1/2 cups of flour was about right. We tried using all-purpose flour, cake flour and a combination of the two and settled on all-purpose. We wanted the cake to be dense and crumbly and the cake flour produced a cake that was too soft and springy.

We have discovered over time that less is usually best with leaveners as the lift will be adequate and you don’t run the risk of an off taste. We needed but3/4 of a teaspoon of each to provide us with a perfectly risen cake. As for the butter, it must be fairly soft since it is mixed directly into the flour without being creamed. Twelve tablespoons was just right.

We tried using brown sugar as well as plain granulated white sugar and preferred the granulated white sugar as it didn’t interfere with the pecan flavor. For best results we used 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar.

As for eggs, we experimented with whole eggs as well as extra yolks and in the end we simply went with four large eggs. Sour cream is almost always used in rich coffee cake recipes and ours is no exception. One cup gives the cake a wonderful flavor as well as a moist tight ure, which we loved.

Taking a cue from our publication Cook’s Country, a half cup of the pecans are finely processed and then added to the cake mixture. This provides a nice pecan flavor with every bite. The cake baked up nicest in a 350-degree oven in about 60 minutes.

Now our pecan coffee cake met all of our expectations. It was full of deep nutty flavor, was rich and moist and perfect for any occasion.

PECAN COFFEE CAKE

To intensify the flavor of the nuts they should be toasted. We placed them in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350-degree oven until slightly darker in color and fragrant, about 7 minutes. They must cool completely before they are ground or they will turn into paste. The cake will keep covered for 2 to 3 days.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Streusel Filling and Topping:
1 cup toasted pecans
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Pinch salt
1/2 cup all purpose flour
4 tablespoons unsalted butter at cool room temperature
For the Cake:
1/2 cup toasted pecans
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 large eggs at room temperature
1 cup sour cream
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature

DIRECTIONS:

Heat the oven to 350 degrees and adjust a rack to the center position. Lightly butter and flour a 10-inch tube pan.

For the streusel: Place the pecans, sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until the nuts are finely ground, about five 10-second pulses. Remove and reserve 1 cup of nut mixture for cake filling. To the remaining pecans/sugar/spices in the processor bowl, add the flour and butter and process until the mixture resembles wet crumbly sand, about 7 one-second pulses. Remove streusel topping from processor bowl and set aside in a cool place.

For the cake: Place the remaining half cup toasted pecans along with 2 tablespoons sugar in the bowl of food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until the nuts are very finely ground, about seven 1-second pulses. In a medium bowl whisk together the eggs, sour cream and vanilla. Place the ground nuts, flour, remaining 1 cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low for 30 seconds to blend. Add the butter and half of the egg mixture and mix on low until the dry ingredients are moistened, about 30 seconds. Increase the speed to medium speed and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining egg mixture in 2 additional batches and beat on medium speed until each addition is incorporated, about 20 seconds, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Add about two-thirds of the batter to the prepared pan and smooth out with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle with the reserved one cup nut mixture from the first step. Add the remaining batter and smooth gently. Sprinkle with reserved streusel topping. Bake until cake is well-risen and browned on top and a tester inserted into the mid point of the tube comes out clean, about 60 minutes. Cool on a rack for 15 minutes. Run a thin knife around the outer edge of the cake and lift the cake out from the pan. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature

Makes 1 10-inch cake.

SPRINGFORM PAN VARIATION

You may bake the cake in a 9- or 10-inch springform pan that has been lightly buttered, bottom lined with parchment and floured. The 9-inch pan will take about 65 to 70 minutes to fully bake and the 10-inch pan will take about 50 to 55 minutes.

Contact Christopher Kimball at kitchendetective@bcpress.com